Jeffreys Bay, 1995. Into his 60's, Miklos Sandor Chapin Dora has seen, done, been it all. He is the one God of surf. Conservatively, 999 in every 1000 lives of surfers over the last 60 years exist solely due to this one person.
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“Awwwwww there goes Big Rog.” Flippy Hoffman growling, sitting on his deck off the sand at Pupukea. The surf had been dismal. Waist-high slop rolled in like the day before and the week before that.
Worse than inserting yourself into a conversation is making a living out of doing it. Consider surf writing. 9 in 10 surf writers cop out with first-person narrative, flogging personal ego by 'being there for the reader.’
In 2012, I wandered into the Valla Surfboard Factory in Nambucca Heads and was struck with those same tinfoil emotions Warhol had been struck by whilst having his hair cut in Name’s apartment in 1959.
In 2020 Patrick Trez made this film, Zoriontasuna Eta Askatasuna, featuring Basque surfboard shaper Peta Barrel and Lee Ann Curren with the assistance of Big Sky Limited.
Andrew Kidman on Terry Fitzgerald's innovative Hot Buttered Skateboards.
Andrew Kidman writes about the planshape and evolution of Green.
Guest author Dave Parmenter on The Provenance of The Hook Fin
Guest author Dave Parmenter on Cheyne Horan
By Andrew Kidman
By Andrew Kidman
By Andrew Kidman